Right of return?

There is a 30-day return policy on all our products. As soon as the goods have arrived at our warehouse undamaged, you will get your money back. The customer bears the shipping costs for the return.

Complaint - damaged goods

If the goods were damaged during transport, please contact us immediately. We have photographed the goods before packing and can trace the damage exactly.

2. Shipping

The package doesn't arrive?

You have ordered in the online shop and your package still has not arrived! That can have the following reasons:

  1. We haven’t received any money from you -> your package is not on its way yet: Check your e-mail inbox and spam folder! Please make sure that everything worked with the payment method, sometimes the function of PayPal and Amazon is limited – in this case simply transfer the money to our company account: you will find the bank details on your invoice, which we sent you via email -> inform us as soon as you have transferred the money!
  2. Problems with parcel delivery – your parcel is already on its way: First of all you should check your parcel number, you received it in your shipping confirmation.

Your package may not be delivered because nobody is at home. We as the seller cannot give the parcel service any instructions to leave the parcels at the door. Please contact the parcel service directly and have your parcel number ready.

Shipping to United Kingdom (UK - England - Brexit)?
Is shipping to Ireland affected by Brexit?
Shipping to Switzerland?
Worldwide shipping - America, South America, Asia, Africa & countries outside Europe?

3. Questions about the tree

Does my tree house grow up with the tree?

Don’t worry, you won’t have to renew your ladder every year. Trees only sprout from the tips of their branches. The rest of the tree then only grows in width (annual rings). You can observe this well, e.g., by means of carvings on the trunk – they remain at the same height for a lifetime.

How high does a treehouse tree have to be?

The height of the tree is not decisive for your tree house – much more important is the diameter of the trunk, which should be at least 30 cm (better 40 cm), depending on the size of your treehouse!

Also make sure that the proportions of the treehouse and crown volume are right, the tree house should not visually “smother” your little tree.

With small-growing trees with a low crown, such as fruit trees, it is often better to build the house on stilts.

Is my tree hardwood or softwood?

The decisive factor for treehouse screws is the compressive strength along the wood grain:

Hardwood (> 2.5 KN/cm²) – very suitable for screws:

  • Deciduous tree: maple, beech, oak, ash, walnut, sycamore, robinia.

Medium hardwood (2 – 2.5 KN/cm²) – well suited for screws:

  • Deciduous tree: birch, chestnut, alder, cherry, lime
  • Conifer: Douglas fir, pine, larch, spruce, fir

Softwood (< 2 KN/cm²) – moderately suitable for high load on screws:

  • Deciduous tree: aspen, poplar, pear, horse chestnut, elm, willow
  • Conifer: cedar

IMPORTANT:

These are only rough guide values – wood strength varies from tree to tree, from place to place and even in the same tree! More about this here…

For the final suitability for tree house construction, apart from the compressive strength, the sealing capacity, the wound healing also play an important role.

How much does a tree sway?

Just watch your tree in the next storm. A 40 cm thick tree hardly swings at all at a height of 2 m, in a hurricane maybe 2 cm in both directions.

Which tree is best for building a treehouse with screws?

Beech, oak, lime, larch, maple and tree species with similar wood properties are the top treehouse trees!

You can read more about them in our detailed article:

Which tree is best for treehouse building?

 

The tree looks unhealthy or old - what should I do?

You decide how long you want to have fun with your tree house. Old trees can live on their reserves for many years despite their old appearance. If the tree house is close to the ground, you can move it on supports later if necessary. Hollow trunks and trees with fungal infestation should be avoided in any case! Here you can learn more about choosing the right tree.

My tree is too small - How fast does a tree grow? How long must I wait?

At the height of the platform, the girder should have a trunk diameter of at least 35 cm (more information here). If no such tree is available, there are two possibilities:

  1. Wait: If patience is your strength and grandchildren are in sight, you can postpone the treehouse project for a few years; the trunk diameter grows +5 to 15 mm per year on average.
  2. Build a stilt house or a mixed form, for example with a tree screw and three uprights. Many of the most beautiful “tree houses” are supported by artificial stilts, which is also common practice in professional tree house construction. Don’t worry: The real tree-house feeling will still come about as soon as the house hovers a few meters above the ground and kisses the treetop.
What is a twig?

The twig is a fork in the tree trunk. One distinguishes according to form between “U- and V-twiggle”. geeignete Befestigung Baumhaus runde Astgabel Stammgabelung Verzweigung Zwiesel U-twigs are generally more stable and resilient, as their wood fibres are better interlocked. With V-twiggles, on the other hand, the bark grows into the fork and the fibres are only moderately interlocked or not interlocked at all – V-twiggles are far less resilient and tend to tear out, so they should not be used as a fastening point for heavy loads.

Can I remove branches? How do I cut or saw them off?

Often branches get in the way when building a treehouse, these may be removed in moderation – but you should not cut back more than 5% of the crown / entire foliage. Important: Never break off branches, this will cause extensive injuries, which provide a target for fungi and insects.

  • Branches should be sawn off with a sharp saw in such a way that the cut surface is as small as possible (clean cross-section).
  • Larger branches are under tension; trim these branches gradually before making the final cut.
  • Do not saw off the branches directly at the trunk, but leave a small 2-3 cm stump. And always remember: cut as small as possible!
  • Dead wood i.e. dead tree parts should be removed, as they are a danger when falling down.

Otherwise: Leave everything on that does not necessarily have to be removed. Handle branches and leaves carefully, as they are the tree’s primary energy source. Every removed branch weakens the organism, at a time when it already has to deal with the additional load of the tree house anyway.

  • If possible, one builds around the large branches or integrates them into the tree house.
  • Smaller branches can often be bent away and tied with a rope.
How can I protect roots?

The task of the roots is often underestimated, as they are invisible in the soil. They are just as important for the tree, and their volume is about as large as the tree crown. Any damage to a root means loss of nutrients and a damaged area where decay can spread.

  • Make sure that the soil is not too compacted during and after the construction work; the roots need a loose-airy soil to remain functional.
  • Avoid stress in the immediate vicinity of the trunk: paths, crowds or parking lots. A good measure against soil compaction is beef mulch or elevated paths on piles.
Can I put a pipe / threaded rod directly through the tree?

Anything is possible, but is it good for the tree? In arboriculture, through-bolting is a common technique for attaching rope safety devices, but it is not comparable to the load on a tree house. Through-bolting is very well suited for attaching smaller loads by means of rope suspension. The threaded rod should have a diameter of at least 20 mm (take rust into account), on one side there is a large 5-7 cm washer, on the other side a ring nut to which the rope is attached. Here you can find more information and alternative fixing methods.

Is glue harmful to the living tree?

For a long time we have been gluing our tree screws in the tree with PU-wood glue. The intellectual basis is the tree biology and the wound reaction of trees:

  1. The tree reacts to injuries by storing resins and essential oils. This seals the vessels and prevents fungal spores and rot from penetrating. In addition, these deposits are often inedible for insects.
  2. The damaged vessels can be imagined as long tubes in which water and nutrients are transported. If the tube is damaged, the tube flows out and is no longer functional.
  3. The loss of the broken lines is compensated. Around the injured zone (e.g. drilling of the screw) new vessels are formed in the following years.

Why does “TheTreehouse.Shop” recommend PU-glue for fixing the screws?

  1. PU-glue expands up to three times its volume when hardening.
  2. It fills all cavities.
  3. Like the tree with its resins and oils, the glue penetrates the damaged vessels and seals them permanently – so fungi and insects have no chance.
  4. The glue strengthens the immediately surrounding wood.
  5. The wood screw connection becomes more durable and stable.
  6. The tree screw is absolutely tight in the hole – so you can loosen a tight nut afterwards without having to unscrew the screw again.
  7. PU-glue is a viscous mass that hardens completely in a short time, which prevents harmful substances from being transported further into the tree.

Why no natural resins instead of toxic PU-glue? Natural substances could theoretically provide a breeding ground for fungi and insects. Moreover, their hardening and volume increase is not as good as with PU-glue.

What happens if the treehouse tree dies?

Should the tree weaken at some point, you can always support your tree house on stilts. This takes the strain off the tree and you can comfortably watch it grow old.

Can I build my tree house on a sawn-off tree trunk?

Of course it is possible, but you should pay attention to the following:

  • The tree trunk must not be rotten or brittle and must be able to hold the tree house securely.
  • The cut surface must be constructively protected from moisture (build a kind of roof).
  • support your platform from below with struts and triangular constructions.
  • you usually don’t need special tree screws for this – fix the beams directly to the tree with wood screws, use many long wood screws ø 6-8mm. Since the tree is already dead, you can do this as an exception 😉

Normally, a reasonably healthy, freshly cut tree should remain standing for another 10 – 15 years. After that, either the children are too big, or the children have to support their little house with wooden stilts.

When is the best time to build a treehouse - winter, spring, summer or autumn?

From the tree’s point of view, autumn and winter are the best times to build a tree house; injuries are not so tragic here. The tree is “not in sap” (because of the cold, little foliage and sunlight). It is also not bird season. Therefore, this is also the high season for arborists and forestry workers.

For treehouse builders, however, it is high season all year round! Why? Because we are the most colourful birds of all 🙂

PS: Don’t worry, even in high summer a healthy tree can easily cope with the “treehouse intervention”!

Will it harm the tree if I make a fire under it or have a stove in the tree house?

The tree, or rather its nutrient-conducting outer skin, the cambium, is sensitive to excessive heat (> 40 – 45° C). The cambium and proteins break down, the bark flakes off and cracks and stresses appear.

Some trees have very thick bark and can even survive small forest fires (e.g. cork trees), others are extremely sensitive to heat and even get a “bark burn” from too much sunlight (e.g. young beech trees).

If a fireplace is too close to a tree, the tree can be damaged, especially by the continuous hot air that rises. Therefore, stovepipes should also be placed in such a way that the hot air does not damage the tree and its branches.

What is tree surgery and should wound closure products be used for tree injuries?

Tree surgery has proven to be useless and counterproductive according to many experts! (Wessoly, Erb)

In the past, so-called “tree surgery” measures were taken for tree wounds. These practices included gouging, drilling and the use of wood preservatives. This did more damage to the trees than good. The natural well-functioning compartmentalisation and regeneration zone was often damaged or removed.

So-called “wound closure agents” have also not proven to be effective and fungus-inhibiting – such agents should be avoided when building treehouses – the tree knows exactly how to deal with injuries.

What is crown protection - when should I install it?

A crown brace is, as the name suggests, designed to secure and stabilise unstable branches of the tree crown. This is usually done with the help of steel cables in combination with special spring systems to prevent jerky loads from occurring during storms.

The securing should not be completely rigid, as a little movement is good for the stable growth of the tree and the branches.

The crown should be secured especially where falling branches can be dangerous: on roads, pavements, public parks, tree houses, … The installation should in any case be carried out by qualified personnel!

Do climbing plants such as ivy or clematis damage the tree?

As a rule, they live together peacefully. They have a water system separate from the tree and do not tap anything from the tree. It only becomes problematic when the plant covers the tree crown and competes with the tree leaves for light. As ivy is an evergreen, it can also be exposed to higher wind and snow loads in winter – but this should not be a tragedy.

How much does a tree house cost?

Costs and prices for a DIY tree house in Central Europe (pure material costs to build yourself):

  • Mini children’s hideaway 4 – 6 m² (for summer): 1000 – 2000 €.
  • Small children’s playhouse 6 – 10 m² (for summer): 2000 – 4000 €
  • Medium-sized overnight tree house 10 – 15 m² (for summer): 4000 – 6000 €
  • Tree house for living 10 – 15 m² (insulated for summer & winter): 6000 – 10000 €
  • Large tree house for adults 15 – 25 m² (insulated for summer & winter): 9000 – 20000 €
  • Spacious luxury tree house for permanent living for adults 25 – 40 m² (with heating & sanitary): 25000 – 40000 €.

 

If you have your tree house built by a professional – take everything x 3!!!

Cost decisive factors are here:

  • Quality of materials and workmanship
  • Planning effort & details (e.g. round shapes are much more expensive!)
  • Journey & distance to building site (overnight stays, travel costs, on-site appointments)
  • Size (m³)
  • Height (the higher up the tree, the more time-consuming the assembly!)
  • Terrain & access to tree house
  • Electricity and sanitary connections

 

Here you can find out everything about costs with example pictures and tips on how to save money!

How long does a treehouse last (service life)?

A well-built tree house is comparable to a mountain hut or a boathouse. Professionally assembled and under normal circumstances, tree houses last at least 20 years! Then small things may have to be touched up, e.g. roofing (shingles) or individual floor boards that are exposed to strong weather.

How big should a treehouse be?

A mini children’s treehouse for hiding and playing should have at least 4 m² of floor space.

A treehouse for adults should have at least 10 m², so that two people can have a good time in it!

The tree or trees set the limit at the top: always build so that the treehouse is nicely “hidden” in the crown, then you’ll be right.

You can find more on this topic here:

– Tree house planning in general

– Tree house size and dimensioning

How high can my tree house be in the tree?

Tree houses that are far above the ground often look particularly exciting! What you should bear in mind:

  • the higher up, the more complicated the construction becomes
  • the higher, the stronger the wind load
  • the higher, the more dangerous everything becomes (falling objects, people, …)
  • For small children, the platform height should not exceed 3m, so slides and climbing ropes can also be attached.
  • The most comfortable way to work is to stand safely with the ladder extended (approx. 3 – 4m platform height).

How many trees do I need to build a tree house?

One strong tree is enough, but building a tree house in a single tree tends to be more difficult than in many. It’s easiest with 2, 3 or more trees spaced 2 – 6m apart, as you can attach your platform beams nicely and get a large platform area.

If the trees are too small, you can of course build on stilts or choose a combination of tree house attachment and stilts.

How far apart can treehouse trees be?

The distance between the trees should ideally be less than 6m. If the distance / span is even greater, the wooden support beam must be so massive that it is difficult to carry. In professional tree house construction, however, spans of up to 8m are not uncommon.

Do i need a building permit for a tree house?

Our experience after 10 years of practice: NOYES! Whether you need a permit depends on:

  • Superior building code of the federal state
  • Local building regulations of the municipality
  • The location of the land within the municipality
  • The position of the tree house in the property
  • The size, height and design of the house
  • The relationship with your neighbours
  • Risk appetite of the building owner
  • “Vitamin B”

You can find a detailed report on this topic here

How do I build a spiral staircase?

Spiral staircases (large radius without central upright) and spiral staircases (small radius attached to central upright) are complex custom-made products from carpentry, joinery or carpenter’s workshops that require a lot of expertise.

Spiral staircases made from “one cast” are either bent or assembled from numerous individual parts.

The stair construction should be as self-sufficient as possible from the tree and only be supported by the tree at a few points (with wooden struts).

We advise against the method of screwing each individual step into the living tree!

  • this technique is no longer professional: “professional tree house construction” means as few injuries as possible. This is the general opinion of professional treehouse builders worldwide (see “World Treehouse Conference”).
  • Screwing step by step one by one into the tree is what we did as ignorant children
  • many small injuries and many individual pressure points mean stress for the tree
  • Each of these steps can deform individually, making stair climbing unpleasant and dangerous.

 

For do-it-yourselfers, the construction of a spiral staircase is suitable – as always, you can find instructions on YouTube.

The treehouse tilts or sways - what can I do about it?

Tree houses will always sway a little, that’s just the way it is in the tree, especially in the wind. But it can also happen that the construction starts to sway without the tree moving.

What’s stupid about that?

  • It can feel uncomfortable / unsafe.
  • The individual fasteners (tree screws, wooden joints, …) are permanently stressed by this. (Alternating load, bending, shearing, tension, pressure).

 

Find out the cause – why is it tilting / swaying?

Lateral tilting:

  • Wide cantilevered platform or parts of the platform.
  • Wooden beams too small in size – beams spring and bend.

Rotation / swaying:

  • Triangular construction rotates around axis of tree trunk
  • Rotation when people walk and brake
  • Use of suspension bridge, swing or similar.

Measures:

Once you have observed and understood where the tipping / swaying is coming from, there are simple methods to counteract it – make sure you use compression and tension elements correctly:

  • Attach struts from below (predominantly pressure, little tension)
  • Attach rope suspension from above (only tension!)
  • Insert additional short wooden struts / brackets.
  • Set the ladder element / stair firmly in concrete
  • Set additional support in concrete
  • Reinforce the wooden beams

 

The basic rule for bracing is important in all of this:

Square passes – Triangle persists

Try the whole thing out with a metre rule 😉

Where do I buy my wood?

It is best to buy the timber directly from the sawmill or from local timber suppliers. Advantages: – Personal advice, rustic people – Short delivery routes -> ecological – Fast reordering – Wood can be inspected and individually selected – Cutting possible

Which type of wood is suitable?

The following are particularly suitable for alternating humidity outside areas (substructure, platform, floor boards, railings, stairs, exterior façade, windows, etc.): Larch and Douglas fir Their stored resins and oils prevent the wood from rotting prematurely. For the interior area (wall construction, interior formwork, rafters, …) we recommend Spruce Spruce wood is cheaper, can be worked super and does not resinate as much. As shingle roofing you either use: – Larch wood (split or sawn) – Cedar wood (imported goods; but smells very good) OSB boards (9 – 12mm) are ideal for stiffening wall and roof surfaces.

How thick must my wooden beams be?

The following rule of thumb is used to calculate the bar height: Beam width b > 6 cm, so that you have enough chuck to screw together.

How do I connect the wooden beams?

In modern timber construction, wooden beams and joints are secured with screws and metal connectors. Notches, overleaves and other traditional wooden joints are real eye-catchers and embody the craftsmanship of carpenters – but from today’s technical point of view they have the following disadvantages:

  • The cross-section of the wood is weakened (you remove part of the supporting beam)
  • The weakening is often exactly at the critical, particularly stressed points
  • The flat end-grain woodcuts and joints are particularly critical for water accumulation

As beautiful as the old connections are: from a static and technical point of view, we have much better means at our disposal today: instead of hand-forged nails, there are now special wood screws for every type of connection!

Which boards / floor boards are used for the platform? What is the distance between the platform beams

The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the beams below::

Board thickness Centre distance platform beam
25 mm <= 55 cm
30 mm <= 65 cm

The width of the boards should be 10 to max. 15cm, so that boards are not too “bowls”.

How wide should the joint between the boards be?

Joint width between floor boards: approx. 12 – 15 mm, the wider the joint, the better you can cover it cleanly. If you make the joint too narrow (<10 mm), the boards soaked with water in the rain will bump into each other and make everything even worse.

Bowls vs. splinters - which side of the wooden board should be on top?

When wood gets wet, it swells. Soaked boards tend to form bowls, i.e. they bend so that water can collect on them. To prevent this, the core side (right side) of the boards should face upwards or outwards. However, if the core side is ugly or if parts of the heartwood are already splintering off, then turn the board with the core downwards (right side down).

Ribbed or smooth floor boards?

We at “baumbaron carpentry” only use smooth planks – advantages:

  • Can be cleaned more easily
  • More natural look
  • Water collects in grooves -> algae & fungus formation, danger of slipping, reduced durability!
  • More pleasant to walk barefoot and to laze around
  • Less risk of splintering

6. Products

What do I need distance rings for?

GTS Screw, support and distance rings are always a trio! Distance rings are pushed onto the shaft of the GTS screw and hold the support – and thus the platform beams – in position. For more information about the mounting of the spacers, please see the FAQ section below.

Why is the shaft of the GTS so long, although I should always place the support in the middle?

The shaft of the GTS Allstar is extra long (21cm) for the following reasons:

  1. so that the tension cable of the “Cable Suspension” can be attached smoothly – the cable that is tensioned there must not touch the carrier beam.
  2. In order to achieve as much design freedom as possible, e.g. for inclined trees & triangular constructions
  3. So that the tree can grow undisturbed into the thickness – you can push the supports further and further outwards over the years.
Can I also use screws from the hardware store?

No – the screws available in building material stores are not designed for the loads of a tree house! Tree house screws are made of a special steel, have a larger diameter and a load-optimized geometry (consider constant wobbling in the wind and by floating construction).

Can I rebuild the screws myself?

I hear this question very often – a few honest thoughts about it:

  • Treebolts are statically highly stressed constructional elements (often several tons of load). The load situation is dynamic and the fasteners are permanently exposed to extreme alternating loads (crowds of people, swaying, wind, storm, snow loads).
  • Tree houses are usually installed a few meters above the ground, a material defect can have fatal consequences.
  • In the course of numerous bachelor theses we have done research on bolt geometry, materials and the manufacturing process: During our experiments some prototypes broke off; the reason was a wrongly placed weld seam, a wrong welding method or the wrong metal alloy.
  • I wouldn’t have thought it either, but there is more behind the treehouse screws (originals from the USA) than just welding two steel parts together…

So now you can decide yourself…

What steel are the GTS products made of?

Each of our steel parts is manufactured from a steel alloy specially optimised for the respective area of application! German DIN – nothing from China – the rest is company secret – more so called i ned – I am not stupid!

Why are not all screws and parts made of stainless steel?

Tree bolts are exposed to permanent alternating loads (wind fluctuation and dancing people) – stainless steel would be too brittle for such loads in the long run. Our screws offer the optimal compromise between elasticity and strength.

Can I weld something onto the steel parts?

Attention: Any modification of our products invalidates any guarantee! The screws are made of special steel alloys which are difficult to weld without expert knowledge and the necessary welding methods – not recommended! If you want a custom-made product, we recommend to design the part completely new and to weld it from a homogeneous material – there are no limits to your creativity – just follow our standard dimensions.

What do I clean the tools with?

In order to eliminate fungal spores and foreign bodies, all tools that have contact with living wood (drilling, sawing, cutting) should be cleaned and disinfected immediately before use:

  • Alcohol is best suited to dissolve organic compounds such as fungal spores, fats, pollen. Alcohol = Ethanol can be used either in its pure form (expensive because of alcohol tax – but drinkable – or as a mixture in the form of isopropanol, spirit cleaner for the household, or similar.
  • Another possibility to clean the tool is to flame it with a Bunsen burner or similar.

Caution:

  • Do not use acetone – it is too aggressive and attacks plastic and paint!!!
  • When using other disinfectants, please make sure that they are environmentally friendly and harmless to health.
What is the difference between "German Treehouse Screw (GTS)", Garnier Limb (GL) & Treehouse Attachment Bolt (TAB)?

All are specially developed screws for tree house construction. GL (by inventor, Michael Garnier) and TAB (by Pete Nelson) come from the USA; their screws and tools have inch dimensions. The German Treehouse Screw (GTS), as the name suggests, is produced in Germany (near Munich) and from there it is shipped throughout Europe. Based on the American model, it is constantly being further optimised. The dimensions were adapted to the European market.

When do I use the GTS Top? What is the difference to the GTS Allstar?

When should the “GTS Top” be used?

Normally, for heavier loads, the GTS Allstar is the best choice. Why? Because it can carry heavier loads both vertically and horizontally – this is especially the case in softwood!

Problem: The GTS Allstar usually requires a trunk diameter > 40 cm. Not everyone has such large trees in their garden – that is why the GTS Top was developed.

 

The GTS Top is used where the tree is too small for the GTS Allstar.

  • Small to medium-sized tree houses
  • Can only withstand heavy loads in hardwood!
  • Trunk diameter ø at mounting point:
    > 30 cm with one screw
    > 35 cm with two opposite screws
  • Straight trunk with smooth bark (maximum trunk inclination 4°)
  • Vertical load capacity ⇓ MEDIUM
  • Horizontal load capacity ⇒ SMALL

7. Installation of our products

How do I find the same mounting height with several screws?

If you do not have a professional levelling device at your disposal, you can easily help yourself with a simple hose level:

This technique is absolutely precise, very cheap and was already used by Jesus and his carpenters. All you need is a transparent hose filled with normal water (ø 1-1.5cm; length: so that it hangs nicely).

You use your first screw hole as a reference height. Now hold your tube filled with water (and closed) to the middle of the drill hole / screw axis. Hold the other end of the hose at the position where you want to mount your second screw. Now open both ends of the hose and wait until the water level has settled. This level corresponds exactly to your reference height – law of physics!

How do I find the opposite position / axis alignment of a bolt in the same tree?

This is easily possible with a compass (e.g. smartphone app)!

By the way: The wagon scale apps are also very helpful in a pinch;)

How many distance rings do I need?

Not every screw requires the full number of spacer rings if they are used skillfully. Remember: the platform that will later be mounted on the screws is a rigid system that connects all supports firmly together. For example, if one support moves to the left, then the ones next to it will also move to the left – if you plan this in, you will only need a few spacers. It helps a lot if you take a bird’s eye view of the trees, screws, supports and spacers.

Can you simply screw the GTS Allstar into the tree?

No. The wood thread is huge. You have to drill a hole in the log. To screw in the tree screws you need special tools and a strong drill.

Which drill do I need to mount the GTS Tree Screws?

To be able to screw the GTS screws into the tree, you have to pre-drill a hole!

What you need to know about your drill:

  • It is important that your drill is not used at its power limit for a long time – otherwise it will break down: signs of this are light smoking, a burnt smell and tortured noises!
  • The machine must have an extra handle – there is a great danger of the machine “eating” and twisting your wrist.
  • Cordless products (cordless drill) are easier to handle in the tree!
  • The drill chuck has to have at least an 11 mm mounting in order to fit our drills.

 

What drilling power do I need?

GTS Allstar:

For hardwood (oak, beech, ash, …) the cordless drill must be a real powerhouse – the “36 mm snake drill” and the “74 mm Forstner drill” require enormous power!

 

  Hardwood Softwood
Cordless drill example

Hilti SF 10W-A22 ATC

Makita DFF 451 RTJ
Battery power 22 V / 4 Ah 18 V / 4 Ah
max. force (torque) 120 Nm 80 Nm

 

GTS Top / Friend / Safety:

A drill / cordless drill of the same power class as “GTS Allstar Softwood” is sufficient here.

 

Where can I get such a cordless drill?

Cordless drill/drivers in this performance class are very expensive. You need to think carefully about whether you really want to buy such a powerhouse and whether you will need it in the long term. The disadvantage of these top screwdrivers is:

  • they are very large and very heavy
  • too unwieldy for women’s and children’s hands
  • not suitable for fine / small jobs
  • not suitable for tight places

Often it makes the most sense to borrow a strong drill for the day of the installation of the Tree Screws. Try a carpenter’s / joiner’s / farmer’s / carpenter’s / craftsman’s / assembler’s / neighbour’s shop, a DIY store or a machine hire shop.

I’m sure that if you tell the boys about your treehouse project and show them the screw, they will be happy to let you use the machine for a few days.

What is a lever arm?

The lever arm is the distance from the attachment point (e.g. tree trunk) to the load application point (support & beam). The larger the lever arm, the greater the torque and thus the load on the fastener (here the connection tree bolt in the trunk). The pivot point of the tree bolts is approx. 4-8 cm inside the tree. A little experiment with the lever arm: Extend your arm sideways and your partner presses down with the same force, once at the elbow and once at the hand. When is the load on the shoulder greater?

Can I also screw the tree screw into thick branches?

Here the same applies in principle as for the tree trunk:

  • The diameter of the branch should be > 35 cm according to the tree screw

Watch out for branches:

  • The further the screw is from the tree trunk, the greater the lever arm, the torsional forces and the eccentric load
  • The branch attachment on the trunk can tear out
  • The connection is heavily loaded in case of wind fluctuations
  • The whole platform and the tree house will fluctuate strongly and can be destroyed
  • Branches can become rotten

Therefore, only after very careful consideration build in very stable branch connections close to the tree trunk!

Can the supports on the screw tilt?

Yes – All supports can rotate freely around the shaft of the tree bolt. To prevent the platform from tilting, it must be secured by several screws, columns or cable suspensions.

My platform rests on a triangular construction - Can the platform still remain movable?

Yes – Sliding support of the platform is also possible with the triangular construction.

  1. A triangular construction must have a fixed bearing “Static Support” at the top and a “Bracket” at the bottom. A sliding bearing is not possible, because otherwise the triangle would tilt sideways.
  2. The triangular construction is in itself somewhat movable and offers some leeway for fluctuations, as the support rings allow some play.
  3. If the trees fluctuate very much, there is a danger that the connections are exposed to strong tensions. The triangular construction must be decoupled from the platform: The easiest way is to place a sliding plate made of hard plastic (e.g. UHMW) between the beams and secure the beams laterally against slipping (wooden blocks or steel angles).

8. Problems with installation

Overloading the tree screw - what should I do?

Reasons for overloading a tree bolt are as follows:

  • Weight of tree house too big
  • Tree house subsequently extended
  • Short-term extreme loads (crowds of people, wet snow, storm)
  • Bearing / beam is mounted very far out on tree bolt
  • Beam slipped outwards in wind – lever arm too large
  • Tree trunk / wood too soft, see “Which tree is suitable – Every tree is an individual”.

In all cases, failure is indicated by the screw sagging in the wood; the screw itself is dimensioned so that it remains intact. Our load tests have shown that the screw holds its position up to the load limit of the wood (can vary greatly). At this point, the wood fibres give way and the screw sinks. Force and deformation are proportional, i.e. the screw will not continue to sag unless the load is increased. If the screw is already hanging down crookedly – take care and live longer! Solutions to relieve the screw:

  • Fix the support close to the tree and prevent slipping outwards with distance rings
  • Reinforce tree bolt with rope safety device “Cable Suspension”
  • Support platform from below with strut
  • Hang the platform additionally with rope and tree loop from the branch fork
  • Mounting the support with concrete foundation
The black coating is damaged - is that bad?

The black paint coating (KTL) has the following function:

  • protects the steel from rust during storage
  • protects the steel against rust outdoors after installation
  • enhances the parts optically and haptically
  • extends the life span

From a static point of view, small defects do not play a role: All parts are dimensioned so that rust does not matter. The big advantage of the tree screws: As the tree continues to bind the screws, the connection becomes stronger from year to year (see thickness growth and reaction wood). Optical defects can be easily corrected with black paint: paint spray, car paint stick, permanent marker, etc.

The screw cannot be screwed in - The thread does not grip

Slightly round the entry of your 36mm auger hole – so the coarse thread of the GTS can grip better. It is best to use a chisel / chisel or a sharp knife. Once the beginning of the thread has “bitten”, the rest of the screw can be screwed in easily.

The sleeve of the GTS Allstar stops when it is turned in, but the shaft continues to turn?

That’s a good thing – since 2020 our sleeves have been pressed onto the shafts and no longer welded – since then the screws have been truly indestructible 😉 In some cases, the friction during screwing in is so high that the sleeve temporarily “stops” while the shaft can be screwed in further. But as I said, don’t worry, the sleeve cannot slip on the shaft and is still fully pressed into the trunk!

The tree is crooked / is inclined / is crooked - can I still fix my tree house?

Slight inclinations < 10° are usually no problem with a stable tree trunk. However, the trunk diameter should be > 35 cm and the fixing point should not be too high (< 3 m). Consider how you align the platform and where the main loads act:

  • Where does the crooked tree want to tilt to?
  • Does my platform create an additional tipping load?
  • Where do I position my tree house so that the leaning tree is relieved?
  • Where do I install my tree bolts?
  • Which tree bolt can I use? GTS Top only suitable for straight trunks!
  • How do I fasten my carrier beam? Does it have enough space?
  • How do I fasten a triangular construction?
  • What happens with strong wind and snow loads
  • If the tree is more inclined (>10°), you may want to transfer part of the load to supports to relieve the tree.

More information about choosing the right tree can be found here (Which tree is suitable?)

I drilled the hole in the wrong place - What should I do?

Problem: Hole drilled slightly too high or too deep If the borehole is just a little too deep or high, but the horizontal alignment is correct, this is not too bad. Usually the height of the wooden beams, the platform, the other screws or stilts can be easily adjusted. Mill away a part of the beam or put a wooden wedge underneath. Make sure that the carrier beam is not too much weakened! Problem: Screw set completely wrong or drilled crooked If you slept during the assembly or were drunk and the squeaky screw is already in the tree, then leave it screwed in in any case: an open, deep wound would be bad for the tree, because fungal spores and insects could penetrate. It is best to flex the protruding screw on the cylinder so that the tree can overcome it better. Weigh then whether the tree can stand a new screw… if you have any doubts, continue building with rope suspension or on stilts.

The nut cannot be loosened - The screw in the tree turns out with it

What is the reason that the mother cannot be solved?

  • No lubricant applied to nut during assembly
  • Mother has seized up after a long time (similar to wheel nuts on a car)
  • No PU glue in the tree during assembly (GTS sticks better in the tree)
  • Tree screw is too loose (possibly drill hole worn out, insufficient pre-drilling)

Solution to the problem:

  • Tear the connection with spray oil (WD40) and jerk firmly on the nut
  • If that doesn’t work and the screw continues to turn: somehow hold the shaft of the screw with another tool (large pipe wrench, possibly with a rubber pad for a better grip)

Creative solutions:

  • Drill the shaft outside the support with a metal drill or model it with flex to have a better grip on the pipe wrench (the area can be covered later with spacers)
  • Question: Is it absolutely necessary to open the nut? If necessary, make your own spacer rings from high-strength plastic to clamp over the nut.

9. Payment methods

Payment methods

In our shop you can use the following payment methods:

  • credit card
  • PayPal
  • PayPal Express
  • Paypal Plus (PayPal, credit card, direct debit, invoice)
  • Amazon Pay
  • Cash payment at pick up (in 83727 / Schliersee)
  • Direct bank transfer
  • Bartering (sheep, alpacas and camels)

You can find everything about our payment methods here: Payment methods

For value added tax (19% VAT)

VAT must be collected by every trader and is usually referred to as turnover tax by the tax office. Of course, this tax goes to the state, which is why in international trade the question must be clarified as to which state receives the tax.

VAT must always be paid in one country only!

For EU countries:

As our company headquarters is in Germany (EU country of origin principle), German law applies to our online shop. For all our products the German VAT of 19% applies.
The option to choose the foreign VAT of the country of arrival does not exist in our online shop!

For countries outside the EU:

Non-EU countries are exempt from German VAT. TheTreehouse.Shop must be able to prove that the goods arrived in the non-EU country.

VAT also for companies (B2B – Business to Business):

We only sell to private customers (B2C – Business to Customer). Even if you have a business we will charge the 19% German VAT.

Business customers - B2B - Order without VAT

In addition to the normal order, there is of course also the option to order without value added tax (VAT).

To do this, you need a business account, which you create as follows. 1:

1. register at www.thetreehouse.shop

2. confirm your e-mail address

3. log in to www.thetreehouse.shop

4. in your account under “Addresses” you can edit your “billing address

5. there you will find the option to enter your “VAT ID”.

6. this will be checked automatically

 

After that you can continue shopping without VAT.

If you have any questions, please send us an e-mail and we will find a solution!

info@thetreehouse.shop

10. Vouchers / Coupons

Where do I redeem my voucher / coupon?

You can redeem vouchers and discount codes directly at the checkout: Just enter the code and press the “Redeem” button. The amount will be automatically credited to your invoice.

How do I get a voucher code?

It’s easy! Send us an e-mail to: info@thetreehouse.shop

  1. Specify your desired value.
  2. Transfer the amount to our account (you will receive the account details via e-mail).
  3. As soon as we receive the money, we will send you a voucher code.
How long is my voucher valid?

Purchased vouchers are valid for 10 years. The validity is limited to one person, i.e. one email address 😉

11. Other questions

What does TheTreehouse.Shop have to do with baumbaron and the treehouseblog?

We are a welded-in team and work together in our carpentry shop “baumbaron GmbH”: TheTreehouse.Shop = Onlineshop = Vitus Wahlländer Baumbaron GmbH = Carpentry / Tree house specialist = Johannes Schelle & Christopher Richter Treehouseblog = Blog around the topic tree houses = Christopher Richter & Miriam Rügge

Does "The Tree House Shop" also sell washing machines on Amazon, Ebay or Alibaba?

No!!! Attention: Should you come across such dubious offers – these are scammers who use my company data for a fake account. Unfortunately this happens again and again. Police and lawyers can hardly do anything about it. So: We do not sell washing machines, televisions, rowing boats, camels or motorcycles! You can see all products we sell on our homepage: www.thetreehouse.shop

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